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When assembling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred venues. Yet, nestled prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The little Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. This accolade has made the owners totally surprised.

“I am utterly astonished,” states the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that led to their modest shop securing such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its earlier feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” says the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender consistency.

It is then added into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic honour.